A famous hotpot restaurant chain in China has faced censure after a waiter in one of its outlets performed what has been described as a “vulgar” dance with a female customer.

A video clip of the routine, which was performed in a Haidilao outlet in Liaoning province in northeastern China, has gone viral, with many people criticising as “too vulgar”.

On Nov 28, a representative of the restaurant chain said employees are encouraged to provide a personalised service, but in doing so they should not make customers feel uncomfortable.

The waiter was performing a version of the Ke Mu San dance, or “subject three” in English, which can be performed solo or in groups.

It involves significant hip movement which creates a perception of grinding if performed with another person.

Young people originally performed the folk dance at weddings in the Guangxi Zhuang autonomous region in southern China.

It has recently become a popular online meme because of its engaging moves and catchy music.

Cultural pundits said its characteristic hip and ankle twisting movement represents “the true mental state of young Chinese people”, who are burdened by heavy workloads and intense pressure.

Its name is a nod to the third part of the driving test in China, and one explanation of how it came about is that dance is considered the third required skill in Guangxi, along with singing folk songs and eating rice noodles.

Haidilao began promoting the dance across all mainland outlets after some of its employees performed it for customers and received positive feedback.

After footage of the performances in different branches became a phenomenon, the hotpot chain bought the copyright of the dance’s music and asked its employees nationwide to learn the moves.

Haidilao is famous for its performance-based service, the most notable being the “noodle dance” it uses to make fresh noodles. The company also provides manicures, hair washing, and other services for free across its 1,382 outlets in the Greater China area.

However, the new Ke Mu San dance performance has not been a universal success.

One customer complained that during a family dinner, they were overwhelmed by the dance that was “too loud and made them uncomfortable”.

On Nov 25, a waitress at a Haidilao restaurant in China’s northern Hebei province went viral after she was filmed performing the dance without smiling.

The incident resonated with many because of “the pain the dance must inflict on” introverted customers and staff.

“Haidilao is a restaurant, not a club, ballroom, or beauty parlour. I only expect it to provide good food,” one online observer said on Weibo.

The chain is not new to controversy.

In March, one of their outlets allowed a university student who missed her train to stay on the premises overnight, triggering a debate about whether a restaurant could provide accommodation services.

In October, a customer complained that Haidilao rejected her request to seat her doll in a baby chair.

 - SCMP